An excerpt from: 

In Ethical Fashion, Desirability is Sustainability

BY SULEMAN ANAYA 12 JULY, 2010

DOES SUSTAINABILITY SELL?

Definitions and good intentions aside, fashion is a business built on desirability — people buy fashion because they covet what it looks like and represents. So an equally interesting question is whether “Made Ethically” has the same effect as “Made in Italy.” In other words, is sustainability a positive differentiator in the eyes of fickle and demanding fashion consumers?

Stella McCartney became known as a chic designer label that’s convincingly green, not as a green designer label that is convincingly chic. Speaking to The Business of Fashion, McCartney was clear about her priorities: “Obviously, I don’t use any animals which has a huge impact on the planet. But my first job is to make desirable, luxurious, beautiful clothing for women to want to buy. Then I ask myself: can I do this in a more environmental way without sacrificing design? If I can, then there is no reason not to. I think that women buy my product because they like how it looks, feels, fits and being sustainable is an added extra bonus.”

Stella McCartney 2014 spring range

McCartney's new ecologically sustainable body products 

This emphasis on desirability and design may come as no surprise from a graduate of London fashion college Central St. Martins. But interestingly Ali Hewson, who founded Edun primarily as a means to do good, sees it no differently. She told BoF: “In the fashion businessdesirability is sustainability! This point has taught us over the years that we must produce quality clothes. Fit must be right, design details correct.”

Julie Gilhart, influential fashion director at Barneys New York, and an early proponent of sustainable fashion, sums it up bluntly: “Consumers respond to good design. Design and desirability must come first.” When deciding whether to spend on fashion, the consumer looks, above all, for good design. Ecological or ethical considerations are still very much secondary.

To illustrate the point, Gilhart recounts an empirical lesson: “At Barneys, when we explicitly labeled Stella McCartney’s organic line with the word ‘organic’ its perceived value actually went down in the eyes of the consumer, even though it was actually more expensive to produce.”

There’s little doubt that environmental awareness amongst fashion consumers is rising and that greater transparency will become important for more and more brands. But in fashion, sustainability cannot drive sales without desirability.

Indeed, the brands that will resonate most with increasingly aware, but ever-demanding consumers will be the ones who integrate sustainable principles into their operations without making “being green” their defining principle.

This is an interesting and relevant article for us regarding our product development and design, whilst the sustainable nature of our product is appealing we must also ensure that its aesthetic is attractive to the consumer. 

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SUSTAINABILITY WITHIN THE FASHION INDUSTRY: INTERVIEW BETWEEN KATHRYN WELLS AND JO - ANNE KELLOCK 

Kathryn Wells, Communications Manager, Craft Australia, (CA) interviewed Jo-anne Kellock, the CEO of the CTFIA, to ask her about sustainability for the textile and fashion industry and how CTFIA are involved in industry programs, policy and marketing. March 2011. 

CA: What do you see as the key components of sustainability for textiles in fashion?
Jo Kellock:
Last year Australia purchased one billion units of clothing and ninety percent of this was imported. This happens because it can be delivered faster and cheaper. However this faster, cheaper, easier model is not sustainable.  Not only are there serious consequences for the environment and social issues in the supply chain but, there are also serious consequences for the Australian textile and fashion industries.

There is an alternative view which is underpinned by an emerging trend where people are starting to value their purchases.  This means people are looking at what the value is in terms of production value and what related costs there are to their garments. Consumers now want to know where their clothes and shoes come from, what processes were involved in producing them and who has made them. This is a slower, more considered, more complex view that considers people as an investment.

The slower model is also more expensive in the short term. However, the faster model is not sustainable in the longer term as it is predicated on over-consumption. The principles of the slower model are reduce, re-use and re-cycle.  The slower model relies on recognizing that sustainability has to consider economics (in the full sense of the word), ecology and social equity.

This is relevant to our research into the need for our product within the marktet, people are becoming more interested in where products come from, how they are made and how sustainable they are. Thus our recycle focused product will be appealing to this growing consumer group. 

A HIGHER PURPOSE

Having found an article in WGSN while researching called "Giving brands: the need for social purpose" by Nicola Kemp, it stressed the importance of a wider purpose of a brand instead of targeting pure consumerism.

"In an increasingly connected world, brands must shift their approach to engage consumers by supporting wider societal issues, rather than just focusing on their bottom line."

 

This relates strongly to our bag range, as we aim to target society's attention of sustainability, by recycling tents.

"Many consumers today believe that businesses bear as much responsibility for creating social change as governments"

By creating a sustainable recycled product, we are strengthening our brand philosophy and showing our awareness of wider societal issues, aswell as stressing to our consumers the importance of minimising our human footprint. We are giving our consumers a reason to purchase our products

"two out of three people believe companies have a role to play in the wellbeing of communities and wider society"

Our brand is taking part in this, by engages the customer with a higher purpose of helping the environment and being sustainable, which will help us create a strong customer base and become a successful business.

LONGCHAMP

One of the most well-known bag companies is French brand Longchamp. Known for their leather and canvas handbags and travel items.

Longchamp would be one of our competitors in bag ranges - their bags are from durable canvas and very simple and practical.

SWOT analysis of Longchamp:

Competitor analysis: Looking at other sustainable bags

THE MIJLO BAG      

In recent years, fashion retailers have been moving designs from the runway to the rack faster than ever before - feeding a fashion cycle that appears to have no end in sight.

At MIJLO, we believe that fashion doesn’t have to be fast, or disposable, or temporary. We believe it should begin and end with a classic collection of well-designed essentials. And we’re starting that collection with a backpack – A Better Backpack.

Since we believe a product’s lifespan should be as timeless as its design - simplicity and sustainability were an integral part of our design process.

 The Better Backpack is...

1 ) A Premium Backpack That's Built to Last a Lifetime. In an era defined by disposability, we designed a bag that’s built with tough, time-tested materials, and stitched together with precision. 

2 ) Timeless. If you ever feel the need to part ways with your backpack, send it back to us for a 10% rebate and our pledge to recycle it. We want the materials to live on. Let’s make this bag timeless.

3 ) Minimal. We have combined a simple, clean appearance with neutral, muted colors - four in total - resulting in a backpack that’s fit for any era and any style. 

4 ) Functional. 100% cotton canvas, heavy-duty water resistant lining, and a reinforced, padded laptop compartment mean style and substance were considered equally in our design. 

COMPETITOR ANALYSIS: 

Swedish outdoor equipment label Fjällräven was established n the 1950's 

They pride themselves in manufacturing highly functional outdoor equipment with a focus on backpacks 

Fjällräven means Arctic Fox in Swedish

Kånken Backpack Pack 

Originally designed for Swedish school children in 1978, the Kånken has become a beloved icon for kids and adults around the world. Durable Vinylon F material repels moisture better than any other synthetic fabric, while the vast color palette complements every task and style.

Their kanken collection of backpacks would be a main competitor four our backpack label. Its a casual everyday style backpack that comes in a variety of colours and sizes. Its durable, functional and has recently established itself as a highly fashionable accessory for youth globally, including Australia. 

Distribution 

In Australia they are distributed in some boutique stores including Incu, however they're biggest distribution source would be online. The backpacks are distributed form the labels own website, swell as ASOS, shopbop REVOLVEclothing, Farfetch, The Nile and various others. This appeals to their youthful target market who readily engage in online shopping particularly when investing in accessories. 

SWOT: 

STRENGTHS

• Well established brand known for quality and durability 
• Having originally been Swedish school children’s backpacks gives them a quirky edge particularly to an international market 
• Come in a huge variety of colours and three different sizes 
• Use of Vinylon F material that repels moisture and is very durable 
• Are very on trend at the moment amongst youth 
• Affordable

WEAKNESSES: 

• Not big enough for an A3 file 
• Not a huge focus placed on functional properties, the designs are simple with few separate compartments and secure fastenings 
• Lack of distribution outlets, being an overseas label the brand is only stocked in few small boutiques in Australia

OPPORTUNITIES 

• Expand into Australian markets by opening a store here
• Expand into other products – hats, bum bags 
• Collaborations with fashion labels – as they are so on trend at the moment they could look to collaborating with a fashion label to create a sideline range of backpacks that are printed or have some design point of difference to their other bags. This would rejuvenate market interest in the brand and create sense of excitement surrounding the product. 

THREATS: 

• Market saturation – the bags are very much a trend at the moment and consumers may start to get over the bags and see them as having become mainstream. 
• Knock offs being developed 
• Being an over sea’s based brand they could have issues with import and export tax barriers as well as other barriers that come with international trading such as language and cultural differences 

Herschel

One of the biggest competitors for our backpack range would be the Herschel Supply Co. Brand. Based in canada, herschel brand themselves with:

"Manufactures the finest quality backpacks, bags, travel goods and accessories. Our goal is to timeless product with a fine regard for detail"

Herschel sets themself apart from other bag brands through its attention to practical details:

"The details of a Herschel Supply product are inspired by the utilitarian features once found inside hiking backpacks and from earlier years. All of our products have standard details including liners, key clips and pocket sleeves to ensure our products remain useful for todays users."

In terms of target market, i think herschel and J&I would be competing for the same customers. People wanting practicality but fashionable bags.

herschel do a range of sizes and styles - all for different prices

In terms of their advertising, their website and lookbook are definitely aimed at a student age group. Their images are "active" and are obviously trying to appeal to the outdoors lifestyle - young, healthy, active people

They only supply to canada and the us directly from their website, but have other online outlets like asos.

Let's start at the very beginning...

J and I - as fashion design student, need alot of equipment and materials on a daily basis. Getting all of this "stuff" to and from uni is a pain in the ass, especially without a good method of transporting it all.This is why we chose to design and produce a range of backpacks - that not only support the back and are comfortable to carry, but also that can carry a sufficient amount of weight, can fit off sized object e.g. A3 sketchbook...and most importantly look "HIPSTER".With the trend of sportswear and functionality in everything that is en masse at the moment, and also sustainability and recycling a popular practice, we had the idea of recycling and re-using tents; transforming the functionality and use of a tent into the material basis of our backpack range...

To be able to market it at students, we need to be able to sell it at an affordable price point, and make sure that in competition our backpacks stand out as something different and desirable. 

Research areas:

-current backpack brands - styles, size, materials, price, etc.

-what people want in a backpack

-where to access recycled tents